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Sunday, June 13, 2021

John Phelps Narrative, Part 3

 

If the proceeds of our tobacco had been paid over to the people, one-half of our debts would have remained unpaid and, after selling every particle of property we possessed on earth, a large amount of our debts would have remained unpaid, which probably would never have been able to pay, and our creditors must have lost it.  The only course then that I could pursue with any probability of success, was the one I did pursue, and I can with confidence assert that had any other course been taken after we made the purchase of produce, we would have been effectually ruined and our creditors would have sustained great loss by us.  As matters now stand, we will eventually pay every cent we owe.  We have the means; we will do it but we must have time in which to do it.  Mr. Duffy, my former partner, is equally bound with myself, and, from our united exertions, I apprehend but little difficulty in the final settlement of our business. 

 

All debts that I have contracted since the dissolution of partnership between Mr. Duffy and myself, will be met as punctually as the nature of our position will possibly permit.  The principal debt we owed in Philadelphia has recently been sent on for payment, and, having no money to pay it, I secured a deed of trust on my remaining stock of goods, books, etc., together with all the property I possess -- not excepting the bed on which I sleep.  This result has not been anticipated by me nor has any one so great a cause to regret it as myself.  None, I am sure, could regret it more.  Those who know me, I am confident, will be satisfied that I have no disposition to evade the payment of any debt I owe.  Those who are willing to be persuaded of this fact have proofs before them; those who are disposed to think differently, I must leave to the enjoyment of their opinions.  To my friends, I return my grateful acknowledgement and assure them that they will be remembered with the sentiments of the warmest regard. 

 

John Phelps

 

Hartsville, May 28, 1827

 

 

 

This being done, I had no available means left, save the boatload of tobacco which I sent to New Orleans.  I soon received the proceeds, which amounted to some $4,000.00.  I heard of the Galena lead mine; That large fortunes had been made, sometimes in a week, and that there was a great opening for selling goods.  I suggested my plan to my friend Dr. Hile, that the enterprise would be worth trying.  He agreed to go with me.  We set about making preparations for the journey.

 

We were ready to start on the trip by the 12th of June.  I invited many of my old friends to take dinner with me on that day.  I announced to my friends my intention of leaving them for the far-off West, to better my condition.  Everything was in a state of readiness; we saddled our horses and started.  Four of five of my guest s accompanied me for seventeen miles and stayed with me that night.  In the morning I bade them all the last farewell; I have never seen them since.  I left the business in the hands of my clerk and family. 

 

I arrived in St. Louis on July 1st, 1827.  I there purchased a stock of goods for the Galena lead mine, which was then in Indian territory, with the exception of fifteen miles square which had been purchased by the Government for mining purposes.  It was cut off from all the civilized world and surrounded by the Indian tribes.  I shipped my goods on board a steamboat bound for Galena.  I had hardly gotten them aboard when Gov. Cass arrived from Prairie Du Chien, bringing the sad news that the Indians had broken out and were killing all the miners.  The boat was pressed into the services of the Government to take up the troops.  My goods were put off the boat on the wharf and the troops marched on.  I was again disappointed in all my anticipation and bright prospects of building up and mending my broken fortune.  My only chance then was to get the privilege from the commanding officer to let me ship my goods and go up with the troops.  Major Riley had command.  I approached him by saying: "Major, these goods which are on the wharf are mine.  Would it be possible for me to get them back and go up with you?  If it is soldiers you want, I can make as good a one as you have, and I will charge nothing for my services, and bear my own expenses."  His reply was: "My good sir, your goods shall be put back," at the same time giving an order to place them on board again.

 

In five hours, we were on our way.  Everything went on smoothly will we arrived at the Lower Rapids of the Mississippi.  It was there we found we could not get the boat over.  This being the case, the boat, evidently, would have to return to St. Louis and take my goods back, and the troops march by land.  But, fortunately for me, there was a keel boat at the foot of the rapids, which was to be towed up to Galena by the steamboat.  The owner was on board with us.  My only alternative was to charter the keel boat.  I did so.  There were, also, a number of adventurers on board of the steamer, going to the lead mines, who agreed that if I would take them and their outfit on board, they would assist me in pushing the boat to Galena and take our chances among the Indians.  This being agreed to, we were soon well underway -- well-armed and equipped with everything necessary for our comfort on the journey.

 

We then organized our little band and continued on our way and arrived at Galena on the 27th day of July 1827, without molestations from the Indians, a guard having been placed out every night.  On our arrival, we found Everything in great confusion, and most of the miners gone to the settlement for safety. The balance was principally fortified, and business was completely paralyzed, as they expected an attack from the Indians.  I spent two or three days at Galena but became tired of inactivity. I hired a horse and went out to what was called the New Diggins -- about ten or twelve miles away -- where I found the miners still at work on their claims.  They all gave me great encouragement to build a house and bring my goods out.  I accepted their invitation, went to work, and soon had a house ready.  My goods were brought out and placed on the shelves, and I commenced selling on credit.  I did a lively business, as I was told that all miners could and would pay.  I had

not been open but a few days when all was again thrown into confusion by a report of a friendly squaw, who said she had seen the hostile Indians and they would attack us soon.  I took my horse and went to the Diggins and warned the miners of their danger.  I invited them all the meet at my store the next day and organize for defense.  At the meeting it was agreed that we should organize a company to assist Gen. Whitesides who was encamped a few miles off guarding the settlements.  There were about one hundred volunteers, which made a full company.  I was elected Captain, and in two or three days all were ready and on our march.

 

On our arrival at Gen. Whiteside's camp, to our gratification, we found a council had been held and peace established.  Thus ended the Indian War that created so much excitement and nearly cleared the country of its mining population.  Now that the danger was over, the miners returned and resumed their former occupations. 

 

Business of every description became lively. The smoke of the furnaces was seen curling up in almost every direction.  Each day we could hear of some new discovery.  Miners poured in from all quarters.  They began prospecting on Indian territory and finding mew leads, until they had covered a territory one hundred miles square.  The principal discoveries on Indian ground were Gratiot Grove, Mineral Point, Blue Mounds, Dodgeville, Platteville, Snake Hollow, Bee Town, Cassville, Dubuque, and many other points of less note. 

 

The Miners had no time to till the soil, and were dependent upon provisions brought up the Mississippi.  They were sometimes reduced to sore extremities, particularly when the navigation opened very late in the Spring.  As a community, they were governed by such laws as would suit their particular emergencies; for when the commission of any crime occurred, they organized a court, proceeded to investigation, and administered such punishment as the exigency seemed to demand. (Source: History of Ogle County, Publ. Henry R. Boss, Polo Advertiser, Polo, Ill. 1857. p. 29).  

 

This opened before me a large field in which to operate.  It seemed to me there was a bright prospect before me.  I came to the conclusion to start smelting, in connection with my store.  Smelters were each allowed six hundred and forty acres of land for smelting purposes, and I located at White Oak Springs, fourteen miles north of Galena.  I there built a store house and furnace, and soon had the whole thing in operation.  No sooner had I accomplished this that I saw, or thought I saw, a fine opening where Cassville now stands, eighty miles above Galena, on the Mississippi.  I went up there and made another smelting survey, sent up hands, built a furnace and store house, and bought a stock of good for that place.  Many miners had located there, and the prospects seemed good, both in selling goods and in making lead.  But, as we extended our operations on Indian territory, there were still some doubts as to whether it would bring on a renewal of hostilities.  These doubts hung heavy on the most timid portion of the adventurers.  I will here relate a little circumstance what occurred, which created no little merriment for the citizens of the village and a great deal of confusion and trouble to the miners and their families, about nine miles back at what was called the Bee Town Diggins.  The fact of the circumstance were these.

 

I had up a carpenter from the White Oak Springs, to do some work on my store house.  He was a very timid man and had a great fear of Indians, so much so that it seemed to haunt his mid-night dreams and occupy his daily thoughts and conversation.  Some mischievous fellow seeing he was laboring under great mental excitement for his own safety, got up a plan to have his courage tested.  They circulated a report, which they said they had just received, that the Indians were to make an attack on the village that night.  All seemed deeply concerned for their own safety and that of the women and children.  A meeting was called, a company organized, and officers elected.  They appointed Mr. Graham sergeant, whose duty it was to place out the guards, and relieve them.  About dark the guard was placed out, along the high bluff which almost surrounds the town.  While the sergeant was stationing the guard, a number of citizens, who were engaged in the fun, loaded their guns with powder and painted themselves like Indian warriors.  They passed through the lines and took position on the bluff, out of sight.  At the end of two hours the sergeant came to relieve the guard.  The attack was made, and they came down the bluff yelling and firing, after the manner of Indians in battle.  They cut off the sergeant's retreat from the town and he had no other alternative but to take the bluff and get into the road that led to Bee Town.  He ran nine miles, carrying the sad news that the Indians had attacked Cassville and massacred every soul but himself, and he had made a most miraculous escape by climbing a bluff that no human feet had ever climbed before.  This news threw all Bee Town in the wildest consternation.  Teams were gotten and whole families retreated to other settlements for safety.  After the families were gone, a number of miners volunteered to go to Cassville to ascertain the extent of the slaughter,

but what was their surprise when they got there and found all the inhabitants cooly moving about and attending to their business.  Thus ended the farce at Graham's expense and the great annoyance and trouble to the settlers of Bee Town.

 

But to return to my narrative, I had gotten the two stores and furnaces in operation.  Business was good; lead worth $40.00 per thousand, mineral worth $17.00 per thousand -- giving a good profit to the smelters.  I also sold a large amount of goods, mostly on credit, but, if I could judge anything from the profit on my goods and lead, it bore me out in the belief that a prosperous future lay before me.

 

This was in the fall of 1827, I wrote to my family, who were in Tennessee, to close up their business and come to me.  They arrived in Galena on the 17th of March 1828.  During this year I was busily engaged in smelting; bought a large amount of mineral at $17.00.  In the fall lead began to decline in price and kept sinking until it reached bottom -- $15.00 per thousand.  This completely ruined me.  Previous to this, I had opened the first store in Mineral Point that was established there.  I had many good friends in the lead mines, who sympathized with me in my losses, a number of whom made me this proposition; that if I would take charge of fifty men, which they would furnish, and go into the Rocky mountains or on the head waters of the Gulf of California, to trap and trade with the Indians, they would bear all expense and give me one fourth of all the profits that might be made by the expedition; that I should remain in the mountains for the term of three years in command.  I accepted the proposal.  The article was drawn up and signed by all parties.  We were to leave as early in the fall as possible, so as to be able to reach Santa Fe and, if necessary, winter there.  The outfit was to be made in St. Louis, where the company had a large amount of lead in store.  My family was to be sent back to their friends in Tennessee.  They were placed on a boat at Galena.  I remained at the lead mines a week or so after they left.  When ready, I started on horseback, and took my course to strike Ogle Ferry (now Dixon), then kept by a half-breed Indian [Joseph Ogee, 1773-about 1844]. 

                      








                                                                                   Ogee Ferry, Dixon Ferry

I must have struck the prairie, not far from where Freeport now stands; came down the prairie about one and one-half miles east of where Polo now stands and struck the river at the trail which leads to the crossing of the river at the ferry.  This was the first sight of the beautiful valley of Rock River, which embraced a good portion of what is now Ogle County.  I met my family near Alton, but I was still doomed to further disappointments.  On our arrival in St. Louis, I found that the house with which the lead was stored had failed and all the lead in his possession was attached as his property and could not be had.  Thus ended the Rocky Mountain expedition.

 

"Misfortunes seldom come singly."  I was still doomed to drink out of the bitter cup of adversity.  I was there among strangers -- without money or means of any description, I, fortunately, met with Thomas Carlin (a cousin of my wife), who has since become Governor of the State of Illinois.  I formed his acquaintance in the year 1818.  I told him my misfortunes.  He said that if I wished to go on a farm, he had a fine one about five miles below Alton, in the American Bottoms.  I might go there and live on it as long as I wished, without paying rent.  I accepted his kind offer and stayed there one year and did well.

 



                  Gov. Thomas Carlin

 

During the winter of 1830 I received a letter from my old friend, Dr. Hile, who had settled at Beardstown, on the Illinois River, for the practice of medicine.  I had loaned him a considerable sum of money, which he had never been able to pay.  He stated he had a good practice and that if I would move to that place, he would pay me three or four hundred a year and live himself.  I accepted the invitation and moved there in the spring of 1831.  Was received kindly by the Doctor, but he was still unable to give me assistance; so, we were once more in a disagreeable position.  Misfortune, like some malignant fever, will stick to the patient while there are any vitals to prey upon.

 

I settled on a piece of the public land and on the banks of the Illinois River, in Schuyler County, built a cabin and commenced opening a farm.  We had been there but a short time when the Black Hawk War broke out.  Troops marched from the southern part of Illinois to Beardstown.  I went down to meet the troops.   Met Governor Reynolds, an old acquaintance of mine, who was with the troops.  He seemed pleased to see me and asked if I was going with them.  I told him I was not aware of his raising troops in our country.  He said he had ordered one company to be raised, and if I would go, he would order another one.  I finally agreed to go with him.  He then asked if I would be the bearer of a dispatch to Col. Sellars of Rushville.  I answered that I would.  He then wrote a dispatch and a letter of introduction to the Colonel, stating to him that he wished me to command the Second Company.  I delivered them, and the Colonel said that it was the Governor's wish that I should have command of the Second Company.  He said he did not know how that would be, as the men doubtless had the right to select their own officers, but it would certainly be acceptable to me; he added, that as I was a stranger, I could not expect it.  I told him that was so, but, in further conversation, he wished to know if I would accept second in command.  My answer was "yes".  The day following was the day appointed for the people to meet to raise the first company, and it was advised by the Colonel that the second should be raised at the same time.  We met the next day; the two companies were soon raised and proceeded to elect their officers.  I was announced by Col. Sellars as a candidate for the First Lieutenancy in the Second Company.  We were all drawn up in line.  The Colonel read the Governor's letter.  My opponent felt indignant at it and made some remarks.  I answered that it was true I was a stranger but had become a citizen of the country; that I had seen service in the War of 1812.  Should they favor me with the command, I would be with them through six troubles and not forsake them in the seventh.  My remarks were responded to with a cheer.  I was elected.  We joined the brigade in two days and were on our line of march for Rock Island.  On our arrival the Indians retreated across the Mississippi.  We burned their town.  In a few days they sent in a flag of truce.  A council was held, and peace made.  This ended the war of 1831.  The troops disbanded and all returned home. 

 

Nothing occurred, worth noting, till the summer of 1833.  Seeing no prospect of bettering my condition, I resolved to return to the lead mines and try to collect some of the old notes and accounts that were due me.  The arrangement being made, brother B.T. Phelps, was to go with me and try our luck at mining and collecting.  Brother G.W. Phelps and my son, James, were to stay home and raise a crop.  After making a desperate effort, we raised the sum of $4.50.  This was insufficient, but we supplied the place of money by packing provisions on horse-back and taking them with us.

 

We arrived at the lead mines in either May or June.  We met with a kindly reception from our old friends.  We had but fifty cents left and that was soon spent in treating them.  We rested a couple of days with our acquaintances, after which my brother went to mining and I on a collecting tour.  My object was to go to Cassville, about sixty or seventy miles from the place where we stopped.  I was out of money and had nothing to bear my expenses.  I applied to an old friend to lend me a few dollars.  He said he had but fifty cents [$15.40 value in 2021], but I could have that if it would do me any good.  I set out after breakfast and traveled all day without feeding my horse or eating a bite myself.  I got to a little town on the Big Platte and put up on a tavern.  the landlord was an old smelter with whom I was well acquainted.  He did not recognize me, nor did I let myself to be known.  I was invited to supper, but I made an excuse, saying I was not very well and did not take supper.  This was strictly true, but I was very hungry and did not feel comfortable.  In the morning I arose early, ordered my horse, and was told that breakfast would be ready in a few minutes, and that I had better take breakfast as I had had no supper.  I replied that I did not wish breakfast but would ride twelve or fifteen miles first, and by that time I thought I would feel better.  I called for my bill, which he said was fifty cents. This again left me without a cent.  About twelve miles on my road there lived a man who was owing me some seventy-five or eighty dollars [$2300-2500 value in 2021] for the last five years.  On my arrival there my horse was fed and breakfast set for me, to which I did ample justice.  I then introduced the objects of my visit, which was to collect what he had been so long owing me.  I stated to him that I was poor and had not the necessaries of life; that, notwithstanding my straightened circumstances, I had never oppressed him; that I was then traveling without one cent to bear my expenses, and solely depended upon the charity of the people and my friends for support; that if he could not pay all, any portion would be thankfully received.  His answer was that he had not money and could not pay anything.  This conversation took place before another gentleman who was in the room.   Though I had failed to reach the sympathy of my old debtor, I had touched a noble and generous chord in that of a stranger.  I felt gloomy and disappointed and ordered my horse to proceed on my journey.  Just as I was mounting, the stranger came forward, unfolding a letter.  He drew out of it a five- dollar bill, saying: "Sir, will you please accept this five dollars? [$154 value in 2021] I would offer you more, but this is all I have with me."  I thanked him for his kindness but could not accept it as he was a stranger to me, and I did not know when I could refund the money.  His answer was: "That will make no difference.  It will afford me more pleasure to accommodate you than it will for you to receive it," adding, "Though you are not acquainted with me personally, I have long known you by character."  I said, "Sir, as you insist, I will receive it, knowing, as I do, you will never be a loser by me.  Your disinterested kindness will ever be appreciated."

 

I now set out for Cassville, feeling grateful to my new-made friend, Mr. Segar, a native of Richmond, Virginia [perhaps John Segar, US Census, 1820].  I had traveled but a few miles when I came to a house of another of my customers.  He settled the claim I had against him, and I arrived at Cassville that night.  I met many of my old friends and stayed there three days, during which time I collected about four hundred dollars of my old debts [$12,000 value in 2021].  My sun, that I had thought had set forever, began to rise again.  My prospects brightened, and in a short time I collected about fourteen hundred dollars [$43,000 in value 2021] of my old debts. I then returned home to furnish my family with the necessaries which they stood in need.

 

I stayed at home for a short time and then returned to the lead mines.  The morning I was to start Mr. Stephen A. St. Cyr, a Frenchman, came to see me.  He had formerly lived with me at that place.  [He was a Sergeant, in the Black Hawk War]. I was not in good health.  My wife insisted that he should go with me and take care of me if I should be sick on the road.  He said he would be willing to go if he had a horse.  She said that if that was all he should have one.  The horse was gotten, and we were soon on the way.  He had been a clerk five years for the Fur Company in the Rocky Mountains and was well calculated to explore a new country.  On our arrival at the mines, I found that my brother had not struck anything valuable in digging.  He had remained in the mines while I went home.  I had conceived a plan and formed a fixed determination to explore the beautiful valley of Rock River, which I had passed through in the year 1829. 

 

My object was to make a location, as near as possible, on a true line leading from Chicago to Galena, believing that at some future day, at the crossing of Rock River, it would be a very important point.  In order to get all the light, I could, in regard to this locality, I carefully examined the map of the territory embracing the Rock River Valley, the locality of Chicago and that of Galena, ascertaining the distance.  Both places stand south of the northern boundary of the state.  All things being arranged, the Frenchman and myself set out on our exploring expedition, from near Mineral Point, on the Pecatonica in a small canoe.  We expected to reach Rock River in two days, but, owing to the crookedness of the stream, it was seven days before we reached it.  By this time, our scanty supply of provisions had given out and we were forced to supply ourselves by the aid of our guns.  We found pheasants, squirrels and other game were plenty, and we lived well, with the exception of bread.

 

We descended the Rock River to where Rockford is now situated, where we made short stop; examined that section on both sides of the River and found too great a scarcity of timber for a settlement.  Besides, I believed it too near the state line; that the true line from Chicago to Galena was far south of that place.  We then descended to where Byron now stands, where we stopped and looked at the surrounding country, believing that that was about far enough south.  But there was the same objection on account of timber. 

 

We still pursued our journey down the river, about one mile above where Oregon now stands.  We saw a tent on the west bank of the river, near the north-east corner of the Fair Ground.  I said to my friend that there was an Indian Wigwam; we will stop and see if we can get anything to eat.  He said that it was no Wigwam but a white man's tent.  We landed and, going to the tent, I was agreeably surprised to meet my old friend, Col. William S. Hamilton, a son of the celebrated Alexander Hamilton, who was killed in a duel with Aaron Burr.  I had made his acquaintance in my early settlement in the lead mines.  I had not seen him for five or six years.  He seemed astonished to meet me among the Indians and inquired what had brought me there.  I told him that I was on an exploring expedition to look at the country, and if I liked it to locate and make it my home.  He said I need not go any further; that I was in the right spot.  He said he had a contract from the Government to survey into townships a large portion of Rock River country, that he could give me directions where I could find one of the best locations he had ever seen; that it embraced good timber, good water, with a beautiful rolling prairie running down between two fine groves of timber -- about three miles west of where we were.  We were hungry; he prepared dinner for us.  He was about to raise camp and prosecute his work on his line; he had been there a day or two cooking and making preparations to continue his work.  After we had finished eating, he took down his tent, packed up and started on his line, but before he left, he gave us a week's supply of bread, and cut a middling of bacon in two and gave us half.  Being thus supplied with provisions, we had nothing to prevent us from making a thorough examination on both sides of the river.  This being done, I was satisfied it would admit of a fine settlement. 

 

[A poet's description of the Rock River Country, 1841, by William Cullen Bryant, Sr.: Rock River flows through high prairies, and not, like most streams of the West, through an alluvial country.  The current is rapid, and the pellucid waters glide over a bottom of sand and pebbles.  Its admirers declare that its shores unite the beauties of the Hudson and of the Connecticut.  The banks on either side are high and bold; sometimes they are perpendicular precipices, the base of which stands in the running water; sometimes they are steep grassy or rocky bluffs, with a space of dry alluvial land between them and the stream; sometimes they rise by gradual and easy ascent to the general level of the region, and sometimes this ascent is interrupted by a broad natural terrace.  Majestic trees grow solitary or in clumps on the grassy acclivities or scattered in natural parks along the edge of the high country.  Back of the bluffs, extends a fine agricultural region, rich prairies with an undulating surface, interspersed with groves.  At the foot of the bluffs bread forth copious springs of clear water which hasten in little brooks to the river, I saw three of these in the space of as many miles.  One of these is the spring which supplies the town of Dixon with water; the next is a beautiful fountain rushing out from the rocks in the midst of a clump of trees, as merrily and in as great a hurry as a boy let out of school; the third is so remarkable as to have received a name.  It is a little rivulet issuing from a cavern six or seven feet high, and about twenty from the entrance to the further end, at the foot of a perpendicular precipice covered with forest-trees and fringed with bushes. (Bryant, pp.58-59)

 

I am told that the character of Rock River is, throughout its course, much as I have described it in the neighborhood of Dixon, that its banks are high and free from marshes, and its waters rapid and clear, from its source in Wisconsin to where it enters the Mississippi amidst rocky islands.  What should make its shores unhealthy I cannot see, yet they who inhabit them are much subject to intermittent fevers.  They tell you very quietly that everybody who comes to live there must take a seasoning.  I suppose that when this country becomes settled this will no longer be the case.  Rock River is not much subject to inundations, nor do its waters become very low in summer.  A project is on foot, I am told, to navigate it with steam-vessels of a light draught. (Letters of a Traveler; or, Notes of Things, SEEN IN, EUROPE AND AMERICA, By William Cullen Bryant, Sr., Fourth Edition, Publ.: G.P. Putnam and Co., New York, NY, 1855. pp.59-60)]

 

 

I made the first claim where my farm is.  My next object was to make a claim where I intended making the road from Galena to cross the river.  On examining the banks on both sides, I found there could be a good road where Oregon now stands, so I made my claim there.  This was in the month of November 1833.

 

The object of our journey being accomplished and fully satisfactory, we packed up our blankets, left our canoe and steered our course for the lead mines, on foot.  We arrived there in three days, undergoing much fatigue, hardship and suffering on our route.  In the Winter of l833 I went to the Legislature of Illinois and got a Bill passed for a state road from Chicago to Galena; also got the franchise of the ferry where the road crossed Rock River. 

 

[Description of the prairie by a poet, William Cullen Bryant, Sr., 1841:

"...found ourselves on the wide, unfenced prairie, spreading away on every side until it met the horizon.  Flocks of turtledoves rose from our path scared at our approach; quails and rabbits were seen running before us; the prairie-squirrel, a little striped animal of the marmot kind, crossed the road; we started plovers by the dozen, and now and then a prairie-hen, which flew off heavily into the grassy wilderness.  With these animals the open country is populous, but they have their pursuers and destroyers; not the settlers of the region, for they do not shoot often, except at a deer, or a wild turkey, or a noxious animal; but the prairie-hawk, the bald-eagle, the mink, and the prairie-wolf, which make merciless havoc among them and their brood.] (Bryant, p.55).

 

PART II

 

In the spring of 1834, my two brothers, B.T. and G.W. Phelps, one hired man and myself, set out from Schuyler County with teams, provisions, and farming utensils, to commence opening the farm on which I now live; planted and fenced forty acres in corn, built a house, and returned home, with the intention of moving the family up that fall.  But, on reflection, it was thought best to winter there, as we had plenty of food for our stock at home and would move up early in the spring.  So, my brother B.T. and myself came up in the fall together (to harvest) the corn and build a ferry boat.  On our arrival at Dixon, we ascertained that the commissioners appointed to locate the road, had located the road through Naperville by the way of Dixon to Galena, making the road at least thirty miles longer to accommodate Mr. Naper and Mr. Dixon.  Having been disappointed in the location of the road, I was resolved to have one, cost what it would.  After we had gathered our corn, we returned home.  I went to the legislature, got a bill passed for a road from Chicago to Galena, at my own expense.  I was appointed one of the commissioners to locate the road.

 



 

1835 Pioneer cabin built on John Phelps farm

 

 

I moved the family up in the spring of 1835; arrived on the 17th of May, found all our corn had been taken by Indians, had to depend upon grass to support my teams, and haul our provisions from Galena; laid out the town of Oregon.

 



Black Sparrow Hawk, “Black Hawk”, Sauk, 1767-1838.  Dictated a book in 1833, “Life of Black Hawk”.

 

In the spring and summer of 1836, the great land and town lot speculation of those times had fairly reached and spread over Illinois.  It commenced in this State first at Chicago and was the means of building up that place in a year or two from a village of a few houses, to be a city of several thousand inhabitants.  The story of the sudden fortunes made there, excited at first wonder and amazement, next a gambling spirit of adventure, and lastly, an all-absorbing desire for sudden and splendid wealth.  The plats of towns, for a hundred miles around, were carried there to be disposed of at auction.  The eastern people had caught the mania.  Every vessel coming west was loaded with them, their money and means, bound for Chicago, the great fairy land of fortunes.  But as enough did not come to satisfy the insatiable greediness of the Chicago sharpers and speculators, they frequently consigned their wares to eastern markets.  Thus, a vessel would be freighted with land and town lots, for the New York and Boston markets, at less cost than a barrel of flour.  In fact, lands, and town lots were the staple of the country and were the only articles of export.   ...The example of Chicago was contagious.  It spread to all the towns and villages of the State.  New towns were laid out in every direction.  The number of towns multiplied so rapidly, that it was waggishly remarked by many people, that the whole country was likely to be laid out into towns; and that no land would be left for farming purposes.  The judgments of all our businessmen were unsettled, and their minds occupied only by the one idea, the all-absorbing desire of jumping into a fortune...  (Source: Ford, Gov., Judge, Thomas.  A History of Illinois, Publ. S.C. Griggs & Co., Chicago, 1854. p. 181, 182)

 

[On the 15th of September 1837, my father Rev. Thomas L. Hitt, brought his family into Oregon after a fatiguing journey from Ohio... We staid all night at the house of Mr. John Phelps.  I have heard my father and mother often speak of the kind and friendly treatment they received from Mr. John Phelps and his estimable wife during their stay in Oregon...when Oregon only had a few small structures... (Letter of John Hitt from Chicago, Aug 29, 1882; "The Ogle County Reporter", Thursday, September 7, 1882, "The Old Settlers Assoc. meeting..."]

 

In the fall I was in Galena and found notices posted by Mr. John Dixon, that at the meeting of the next legislature, he should apply for a new county.  This division did not suit me, as it was intended to place Oregon on the northern boundary of the county, thus cutting off all hopes of its ever becoming a county seat.  I immediately posted up notices that I should apply for a county at the ensuing session of the Legislature, making the boundaries altogether different, with an eye single to making Oregon the county seat.  The following winter I again attended the Legislature, had a bill drawn up and passed creating Ogle county, and commissioners appointed to locate the county seat.  It was located in the spring of 1837; the county was organized the following fall.  During this winter there was an effort to move the county seat to Dixon.  I again attended the Legislature and defeated their bill: during this struggle for the county seat.  It must be borne in mind that Ogle county embraced Lee also.

 

After all attempts had failed, Mr. Dixon advertised for a division of the county in 1838.  About the time I happened in Galena, was shown his advertisement for a division, by a friend of his.  After examining it carefully I told his friend that I would not oppose the measure, provided he would agree to a small alteration.  I have but little doubt, but my views were communicated to Mr. Dixon; but be that as it may, he was up to see me in a few days; my demands were agreed to, I signed his petition for a division, gave him all the aid I could in support of it; thus ended the struggle about Ogle County and the county seat. 

 

In 1838, the Oregon party succeeded in electing their candidate, and the county business at once was transferred to Oregon.  The Commissioners soon made a contract for building a courthouse, and thus fixed the county seat.  ...the act for the separate organization of Ogle and Lee counties, is dated February 27, 1839...The struggle on the question of the division of the county, in 1838-9, was animated and bitter.  Petitions and remonstrations were the order of the day, and much ill feeling was engendered, which has not even yet died out. [as of 1859] (From: History of Ogle County, Illinois, and the Early Settlement of the Northwest.  Written for the Polo Advertiser.  Polo, Ill.: Published by Henry R. Boss, 1859.)     

 

During the years of 1835, 6, 7, and 8, the beautiful valley of the Rock River was just filling up with a set of industrious farmers from the New England States and Maryland.  Our rich and fertile lands began to show marks of civilization and enterprise, farms were opened on the margin of those delightful prairies, school houses were reared, and mills built for the convenience of the settlers: though the early settlers had to undergo many deprivations and hardships, doing without many comforts they had been accustomed to, yet they looked forward to the time, not far in the future that they should be surrounded by all the necessaries of life at their own happy home. These things have been attained in a great degree.  Many families that moved to this valley at an early day without means, are now well settled on their own farms, basking in the sunshine of prosperity.  It is industry that subdued the forest, tamed the wild prairie and developed its resources for the comfort of man. 

 

During the summer of 1836, the Phelps saw-mill on Pine Creek was completed so that when John Phelps built [perhaps] the second house in Oregon during the summer and the fall of 1836, it was somewhat more elaborate than the Jenkins house had been.  Also, a log cabin it had two stories.  Finished lumber was used for the floor and doors, etc.  It was torn down some ten years later.  Other early log cabins also served until frame houses could be built.  John Phelps built the first frame barn in 1838, having already built a ferryboat in 1835, he and his brother George hand-sawing all the lumber for the ferry.  (Oregon, Illinois 125th Anniversary 1843-1968.  1968. page 3).

 

"Town of Florence quickly gave way to Oregon:"

After John Phelps founded the first settlement in 1835, he granted the privilege of christening the City to his daughter Sarah.

The name she chose was Oregon City. This choice was accepted, and the name Oregon appears on all legal documents of that period up to and including 1839, when the new settlement was finally surveyed... From the personal papers of the late Ruby Nash...in 1839, when the foundation for a new Courthouse had been laid on one of the claims made by John Phelps and Co.  The location was on "Sand Hill", at the corner of Franklin and North Seventh Street.

 

When the town was finally surveyed, [1839] it was realized that the foundation was not on the site specified in the contract.  A legal

battle ensued, and John Phelps, displeased with the decision of the district land authorities, went to Washington, D.C. to appeal to the General Land Office.  He employed Francis Scott Key, author of the Star Spangled Banner, to legally represent him.  However, Phelps lost the case with a great deal of money obtained from the sale of the lots.  The foundation of the Courthouse was removed to its present location [northeast corner of Washington and North Fifth -- two blocks away]. 

 

           ...the negative attitude of the board as a as a result of this error and incident, triggered the decision to rechristen the town ...Florence...

             

On February 21, 1843, by an Act of the Illinois State Legislature, the town of Florence was again officially recorded as Oregon, Illinois. [from: "Oregon Republican Reporter", 1 October 1986, Oregon, Illinois, page 12 SESQUICENTENNIAL Edition].

 

In the 1840 US Census John Phelps was in the Oregon Precinct.  He had eight people on his place, three were engaged in agriculture. He and his wife were in their forties, and their son Nathaniel was 7, and children James and Sarah in their twenties, and there was another man in his twenties, and a boy 15-19, and a boy 10-14. Neighbors were the Nathaniel Swingley family, Thomas Ford Family, and Benjamin T. Phelps family.  

 

(He was at his farm in Rockvale Twp., Ogle County.) [Source: US Archives, Seattle Branch, microfilmed Census Rolls].

 

                              


 

        Governor Thomas Ford, Judge, neighbor, friend of John Phelps

 

 

[Governor, Judge, Historian] Thomas Ford seems to have been present at the creation of Ogle County, both ceremonially and as a resident.  Most authors are simply vague about the location of his home between 1830 and 1842; but there seems reason to argue that he felt that he had a particular stake in the Rock River Country; as Sixth Circuit judge he issued the order for the first county election [held in the Oregon home of John Phelps], to be held on December 24, 1836, and he attended that election.  There is a strong tradition in the county, with outside corroboration, that he maintained a residence there from 1836 till 1842, first in a cabin on a land claim two miles west of Oregon, the county seat, and then in a brick house in town.  Ford and his family are listed as residing in Oregon Precinct in the 1840 Federal Census, but earlier residence or rural ownership of property cannot be documented, for the public land sales had not yet been conducted in the area.  Ford seems to have been close to the family of John Phelps, the founder of Oregon; [tutored his son James and convinced John that James should go to college] it is said [by James V. Gale Journal, Typescript at Oregon, Ill., Public Library, p. 3-4, 7-8] that he boarded with Phelps and later built his cabin on land claimed by Phelps; and he posted bond for Phelps' brother Benjamin when the latter was commissioned clerk of the Ogle County Circuit Court in 1837.  Both Phelps brothers [and brother George, and John's son James], it might be added, were defendants in the lynching trial in 1841.  Ford also was designated Ogle County Commissioner' agent for the sale of Oregon town lots in 1838 and again in 1840, and he was an active member of the board of trustees of Rock River Seminary at Mount Morris, helping to draft the charter for that institution in 1839 and serving at least until early 1841.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

Ford's residence in Ogle County was not continuous; he was a special municipal judge in Chicago for the summer of 1837 until February,

1839.  ...he kept his family in Oregon at least while on court duty, after he returned to the Rock River Circuit (renumbered the Ninth) in early 1939.  (Source: The Story of Oregon, Illinois Sesquicentennial 1836-1986, from the 1976 History of Ogle County, "Judge Ford and the Regulators, 1841-1842", author unnamed.  p. 36-37.)

                                

Previous to the year 1840, other mobs were rife in the northern part of the State.  The people there had settled without title, upon the public lands of the United States, which were then neither surveyed nor in market, and they had made valuable improvements on these lands, by building mills worth ten thousand dollars [$304,000 in value 2021], opening farms, frequently of four or five hundred acres, and whole villages of six or eight hundred inhabitants, were built on them.  By a conventional law of each neighborhood, the settlers were all pledged to protect each other in the amount of their respective claims.  But there were mean men, who disregarded these conventional arrangements.  Such as these belonged to that very honest fraternity, who profess to regulate all their dealings by the law of the land.  Such men had but little regard for public opinion or abstract right; and their consciences did not restrain them from "jumping" a neighbor’s claim, if they could be sustained by law and protected against force.  It soon became apparent to everyone, that actual force was the only protection for this description of property...  (Ford, Thomas. History of Illinois, p.245).

 

I have a number of enemies among the horse thieves and counterfeiters of the north [Ogle, Winnebago, Lee, and De Kalb Counties] who have not been able to swerve me from a strict discharge of my duty as a judge, by repeated threats to my person and property.  A large company of the most abandoned and profligate rogues had settled in the vicinity; they had their justice of the peace and their constables, and came very near electing their sheriff two years ago; they set all law at defiance; threatened all the civil officers who had boldness enough to stand up against them; burned down the court house; rescued prisoners from jail; got onto and hung the juries on the trials of their associates; and swore each other clear as witnesses.  The people were exasperated against them to the last degree and held a meeting for the purpose of declaring lynch law.  If I were at home, I could satisfactorily prove that I opposed that measure and had influence enough with the people to induce them to abandon their intentions for that time.  I then departed on the circuit and in my absence a company was formed to drive the rogues out of the country.

(Peoria Register and North West Gazetteer, August 5, 1842, as quoted in p. 38, "Judge Ford and the Regulators, 1841-42" [from the 1976 History of Ogle County, The Story of Oregon, Illinois Sesquicentennial 1836-1986, 1988.]

 

Judge Ford is alleged to have said from the bench that if his family were molested or his property destroyed while he was away from Oregon on circuit after the Ogle County Court session was concluded,  he would assemble his friends and take summary vengeance.  (Peoria Register and North West Gazetteer, July 9, 1841; p.36, 1986, The Story of Oregon.)

 

The people formed themselves into regulating companies, both in Ogle and Winnebago counties, and proceeding in a summary way, they whipped some of the most notorious rogues, and ordered others into banishment.  Amongst those who had been ordered away, were the family of the Driscolls -- the old man and several of his sons...  This family were determined not to be driven away, and to this end they and several of their confederates held a private meeting, in which they resolved to strike terror into the regulators, by threatening death to all the leading men in their ranks, and by assassinating their captain.  Some... went to the house of Capt. Campbell... out into his dooryard... and there deliberately shot him dead in the presence of his wife and children.  Before day next morning, the news of the murder had run over the country like lightning.  The people early assembled at the house of the murdered man, in White Rock Grove, in great numbers...they were thrown into a wild uproar of excitement and frenzy, like that which seizes upon a herd of cattle, upon seeing and scenting the blood of a slaughtered bullock.  They spread out all over the country, in search of the murderers.  The actual murderers who had done the deed had escaped, but they seized upon the old man Driscoll, and the people of Winnebago county, coming down next day afterwards, had seized upon two of his sons.  The prisoners were taken to Washington Grove, in Ogle county, for trial.  The old man and [William] one of his sons were convicted as being accessories to the murder, and the other was acquitted.  The trial occupied nearly a whole day before the whole band of regulators, composed of about three hundred men...The condemned were sentenced to be shot within an hour; a minister...prayed with them... and then they were brought out for execution.  They were placed in a kneeling position, with bandages over their eyes, and were fired upon by the whole company present, that none could be witnesses of the bloody deed. About one hundred of these men were afterwards tried for murder and acquitted... [Trial presided over by Judge Ford.] (Ford's History of Illinois, pp. 247-249.) 

 

Oregon has... one clock and watchmaker, one saddler and harness maker, three carpenters, two cabinet makers, two painters and glazers, one turner, one wheelwright, two masons and plasterers, two shoemakers, one blacksmith, one chair maker, three tailors, ten barbers, two stores, one grocery, two taverns, and six attorneys at law... Ogle County:

We have seventeen sawmills, two distilleries, one Seminary of learning, sixteen School Houses, and places of public worship, ten stores.  The estimated quantity of wheat raised the present year from three hundred thousand bushels to say nothing of other grains, pork, beef, & c.  The amount of money paid to the Land Office within the last year, by our actual settlers, is not far from $100,000.00.  Seven villages...River Timber...twenty-one groves... (Rock River Register, 28 Oct 1842). 

 

It is in the valley of Rock River in Ogle County that I laid the foundation of the prosperity I now enjoy.  I followed farming and improving my farm from 1834 to about 1844, though I went to Lake Pepin on an exploring expedition in the fall of 1840 for the purpose of location on some point to build a town, with the intention of remaining all winter.  I made the location where Lake City now stands but, learned afterward it was an Indian Reserve.  Finding that to be the case, and the weather growing cold, and badly provided for wintering in that cold region.  There were three of us in the enterprise, we agreed to turn homeward: by this time, the ice was running thick, we had to descend the Mississippi about three hundred miles: before we reached Prairie Du Chien.  We bought a large pirogue or dugout and put our baggage aboard.  We set out amongst the floating ice.  It was many days before we reached Prairie Du Chien, passed on to the mouth of the Wisconsin River, where it was found impossible to pass down any farther.  We lay there three days, hoping the ice would cease running, so we could pass.  In the meantime, there fell a heavy snow, and our provisions gave out.  These circumstances forced us to leave our pirogue and return to a house opposite to Prairie Du Chien. There we spent a week before we could cross the Mississippi.  We all underwent much suffering: so ended that enterprise. 

 

For the next two or three years there was nothing of interest.  I was busy farming, raised a large surplus of produce, and having no market nearer than Chicago, I determined to build boats and ship to St. Louis, with a view to raise money, to engage in the mercantile business.  Accordingly, I built two boats, at Oregon, loaded them with produce that was raised on my farm, and set out on the trip.  That was in the month of May.  Owing to the low stage of the river, we had much difficulty at Sterling, we had to light over the rapids which consumed seven days.  That being done we again set out on our journey, met with no further obstacles until we arrived at the rapids near Rock Island, and about three miles from the mouth of Rock River.  We were there informed by a pilot that it would be impossible to cross; but the river was rising slowly, we lay there three days.  The man that I had employed to pilot us across the rapids, said that the river had risen sufficient to cross.  We again set out, and in a few minutes were swiftly gliding down the rapid current.  The pilot looking ahead, saw a large cotton-wood tree that had floated down and blocked up the channel: orders were given to pull to the right, and miss the tree if possible.  This being done which threw us upon a reef of rocks, tore a hole in the bottom of the boat and it filled with water.  We then beckoned the other boat to still pull to the right, so as to miss us.  This was done, but with no better result, as she came opposite us, she lodged on a reef of rock and filled with water.  There was some produce that was lying on top that was not wet.  The next thing to be done was to get a lighter and take out the loading and raise the boats.  I went up to Rock Island, hired a ferryboat, stretched a rope from the shore to the boats and made it fast.  By that means we could reach the boats over the rapid current; by the most untiring perseverance we got the loading out, and raised the boats in about ten days, but lost all the trading that had got wet. 

 

We fitted up one of the boats and reloaded with the produce which had been saved in good condition.  My son James C.T. Phelps took charge of it, and ran it to St. Louis, and sold out at fair prices.  Thus, ended that enterprise, at great loss of time and money.  These were the first boats ever built on Rock River. 

 

That unfortunate result did not prevent me from trying it again.  In the spring of 1844 I built another boat, loaded it again with the products of the farm; my son James took charge, and landed it safe in St. Louis.  Sold out at remunerative prices and laid out the proceeds in groceries preparatory to commencing business in the fall.  I went to New York in the latter part of October or first of November, to purchase goods, bought my stock and returned home in December.  I had agreed to form a co-partnership with Mr. Wesley Johnston; he was to meet me at Knowlesville in New York and furnish his portion of money to purchase the stock.  He failed to meet me there.  I went to the city of New York and purchased stock in the name of John Phelps and Son, but before the goods arrive at Oregon, Mr. Johnston returned and his complying with agreements I withdrew and turned over my interest to him, which co-partnership has existed ever since.  For many years I purchased their goods in New York and elsewhere, being their regular empowered agent to do so.  From 1844 until the year 1856, I was engaged in various pursuits: sometimes in keeping store for Phelps and Johnston -- in fact, my time was mostly spent in their interest, and whatever occupation I pleased to follow.

 

[In the 1850 US Census John Phelps was living in Oregon City above his store, at the main business corner of Washington and Third.  John was 52 years old, and a merchant worth $12,000 in real estate [$407,500 value in 2021]. Their daughter Sarah L. Johnston, 30, lived there with her husband Wesley Johnston, 30, worth $4,000 in real estate [$135,500 value in 2021], and their son Timoleon Oscar Johnston, 1.  A stage driver born in Pennsylvania, James A. Crumby, 42 years old, lived there too. Across Third Street (106 So. 3rd.) in the middle of the block was probably a stagecoach stop with stables.  The wood frame building was one of the oldest buildings in Oregon when torn down recently (l980's).  Perhaps this was a Frink and Walker, Co. stage stop; John Phelps was a partner in this company.  [source US Archives, Seattle Branch, 1850 Census Microfilm, and 1986 Oregon History Book].]

 

 

Newspaper Ad, April 17, 1852, "Ogle County Gazette, Oregon, Illinois:

 Phelps and Johnson

Having determined to make a change in their manner of conducting business for the future propose selling goods for cash, at such prices as will defy competition.  Their motto will be always sell if the offer covers the cost.  In doing this they wish it understood that their low prices are not limited to a few isolated articles, but to their entire stock, consisting of a general assortment of Dry Goods, Groceries, Hardware, Crockery.  The following list of prices will be strictly adhered to

 

Coffee from 10 to 11 cts. per lb.

Sugar, 6 1/4   8 1/4

[illegible]

 

and every variety of goods in the same proportion.  We will give in payment for goods Pork, Corn, Wheat, Beans, Dry Hides, Furs and good Butter, if delivered when the goods are purchased, for such produce they will sell at their former Book prices and give the highest market prices for this the produce.  We respectfully solicit our customers and the public in general to give us a call before purchasing elsewhere, as we have resolved to let no house undersell us this side of New York.

[From microfilm Roll M-24A, #1-315, Illinois Historical Library, Springfield, Illinois].

 

In the fall of 1856 I visited Texas, spent the winter there, traveled and explored much of Western Texas from Galveston to Lavacca, Victoria, Gonzales, Austin from thence to San Antonio, from San Antonio to Goliad, from thence to the Nueces River.  I also visited the Alamo, where the brave Crockett fell.  I was in the fort at Goliad where the brave Fanning and his band was slain by Santa Anna, after they had surrendered as prisoners of war.  At those hallowed spots, the marks of war were still visible on the walls.  After having explored much of Western Texas, and passing over those beautiful undulating prairies, together with the mild and salubrious climate, I determined to make it my future residence.  This determination was strengthened by the fact that all the citizens agreed it was the finest climate and country in the world.  Having provided myself with money before I left Illinois, I determined to make some investment if anything should offer sufficient inducement.  There were two chances that I supposed would pay well; one was horses and mules, the other a drove of cattle.  I however settled on horses believing they would be more profitable and less trouble.  I went to Goliad in April, the great market for such stock.  I there bought a drove just from Mexico, two hundred and eight head of horses and mules.  After a preparation of a few days for the long journey, we set out for Northern Illinois, a distance of fifteen hundred miles.  I had five hands, three Mexicans who came with the drove from Mexico, and two white men.  We were three months and ten days on the road from Goliad to Polo, Illinois. Though we had to undergo many hardships and privations on the route, yet there were many things pleasant.  It was always pleasant to me to travel in new parts of the world where I had never been.

 

The most interesting part of the journey was through the Indian Territory, a distance of three hundred and fifty miles. Much of that territory was rich and well timbered, with beautiful rolling prairies, well-watered, and will be someday the abode of happy thousands.  This enterprise turned out profitably; we cleared some seven thousand dollars [$218,000 in value 2021].  So, I passed Austin, Texas, I ascertained that there was a large brick store for sale.  I examined it carefully and finding it would suit me for a business house, I appointed an agent to purchase it for me, authorizing him to draw on me for the first payment of the purchase money.  I had not been at home but a few days before I received a letter informing me that he bought the property and draw on me for four thousand dollars [$121,000 value in 2021].  The money was sent, and I proceeded to New York, and purchased a large stock of goods for Austin, shipped them for Port Lavaca, Texas, and returned home to make arrangements to move my family to Austin; but on my arrival home, I received a letter that the contract for the building had been broken and the money returned.  This placed me in a bad condition, the goods having been shipped for that place, and having no house to go into.  I immediately set out for Texas, to procure a business house, leaving my family to follow as soon as possible. 

 

On my arrival in Houston, where the gentleman lived that owned the building that I had purchased through my agent, I found him in his counting room reading a letter.  I introduced myself to him as being the man that had purchased the brick store in the city of Austin through my agent; that he had drawn on me for the first payment, the money was sent, and on the strength of that contract, and my compliance in forwarding the money, and believing from these facts that the property was mine, I had gone to New York and purchased a large stock of goods, and shipped for that point.  On my return home in Illinois, I received another letter enclosing my money back, as I before stated.  The letter he was reading was from his agent at Austin: he handed me the letter saying that it was concerning the sale and stated to him there were in the post office many packages and letters to me, evidently bills of goods purchased for that place, that it would be a great disappointment and damage to me.  I told him his agent took a proper view of it.  His reply was that I should not be put to any inconvenience -- that if I did not see fit to pay the difference in question.  I could have the building on rent and would give me a year to consider if I would take it on his terms or not, as I might see fit.  This proposition set the matter at rest, in a couple of months I accepted his proposal and took the house; the goods arrived, business was good, and all things bade fair for prosperity.

 

Nothing was wanting but the safe arrival of my family, who were to leave Illinois in a few weeks after I did; but time rolled on slowly -- no tidings of them.  I knew they had time to arrive if no misfortune had befallen them.  I grew anxious and uneasy, but weeks rolled on and left me in doubt and gloomy suspense.  But my anxious doubts were too soon confirmed by stern reality.  John Shaffer, a clerk of ours who traveled with the family, left them in New Orleans, and came on to Austin, bringing the sad intelligence that my wife, son Napoleon and brother G.W. Phelps wife were all lying dangerously sick in the city of New Orleans, but it was thought they were slowly on the mend; that he was sent on to inform me of the cause of delay. This sad news had a tendency to increase my uneasiness.  I well knew his instructions were to report as favorably as possible.  I was then again doomed to weeks of gloomy suspense.  The family arrived at Austin worn with fatigue, worn down with grief, bringing the sad news of the death of our son Napoleon and my brother's wife.  These afflictions in a strange land made it doubly severe: no friends to soothe our grief or sympathize with us in our sorrows.  This all happened in the year 1857.

                     


George Washington “Wash” Phelps, brother, and neighbor of John Phelps

 

In the spring of 1858, I again went to New York to purchase goods for Texas; returned by way of Illinois, and so on home to Texas.  I remained there until the summer of 1859; the family being dissatisfied, and wishing to return to their old home in Illinois, I bought teams, a good carriage and baggage wagon, and set out on fourth of July, on the

overland, route, a distance of one thousand four hundred miles.  We were forty-two and a half days on the road.  The journey was pleasant, having good weather, fine roads, and nothing to impede our course. We lost a mule by choking himself to death in the night, by getting his hind feet in the halter: as we had an extra horse which took his place in the team, this caused us no inconvenience.  The family was much delighted with the beautiful landscape through which we passed: we were upwards of a whole day in passing through Indian mounds which seemed laid out in regular distances and uniform height and size, say about seven or eight steps apart.  The days’ journey was about thirty miles: it seemed to be a burial place, but was too extensive for any such purpose; but who can fathom the mystery?  Were they designed for residences, or tombs?  When were they constructed?  Who were the builders?  Will the world ever know more of them then we do at this time?

 

The journey being finished, and the family settled down at home, I again went to New York to purchase more goods for Texas.  I returned by way of Illinois, left Polo in November for the South again: remained there until April 1861, after the war had broken out. -- Believing I would again cut off from my family by a protracted struggle, I again set off for my home in the North.  I took passage on a steamship at Galveston and arrived in the City of New Orleans in two or three days.  On our arrival, the ship was taken possession of by the Confederate Government; all was bustle and confusion, troops were gathering at every town I passed through.  Before leaving New Orleans, I purchased forty hogsheads sugar, several tierces of rice, and a number of barrels of Molasses, and shipped on a steamer for St. Louis, which was the last one allowed to pass the city of Memphis, as the cargoes were confiscated from that time on, that were intended for the West.  I took the cars from New Orleans to Cairo, and thence for home. 

 

In June 1860, I left Austin for Illinois again, and traveled the whole distance alone in a buggy, lay out every night without any company, or stayed in a house until I had crossed the Missouri River, a distance of about nine hundred and fifty miles.  I had intended when I struck the Indian Territory to wait until I should find someone going through, so as to have company; but when I arrived at Red River, it seemed somewhat uncertain how long I might have to wait.  I therefore came to the conclusion to pursue my journey alone.  I had traveled but one day's journey before I met with an Indian who inquired of me if I had seen a man hanging by the roadside.  I told him I had not.  He said he expected his friends had taken him away.  I inquired how he came to be hanging there.  He told me that the man had come with a small drove of horses and stopped at the house a short distance from the road; that night there came some men and took the horses and the man that brought them there and went off with them.  The next day they found him hanging by the roadside.  He also said that he had stolen the horses and the owners followed him. The circumstances led me to reflect that my situation was not a desirable one: I knew there were many white men in the Indian Territory "that had left their country for their country's good", or, in other words, to evade punishment for high crimes against the law; that I was alone, that I must sleep at night, and whilst asleep it would be easy for such desperadoes to kill me, take my mule, buggy and effects, and make their escape.  Under these reflections I became a little more careful, and would leave the road at night, and place myself in some location where my buggy could not be seen from the road.  This precaution was used for two or three nights, but finding it inconvenient, owing to the location of the ground, was forced to stop in the midst of wide prairies, where there was no possible chance of getting out of sight of the road.  I therefore camped wherever night overtook me.  I had provided myself with sufficient provisions to last me through the Indian country, also corn for my mule.  There was nothing wanting but company to make the journey pleasant.  I was seven days passing through the Indian county, until I reached the settlements in the south part of Missouri: nor did I lie in a house until I crossed the Missouri River, a distance of nine hundred and fifty miles from Austin.  I was thirty-five days on the road, and did not change my clothes until I reached home in Polo, as I had lost the key of my trunk soon after I had started from Austin, in the Indian country.  I had also lost my valise out of my buggy, which contained my Navy colt revolver, and in consequence was unarmed, and had nothing to defend myself with.  After I had crossed the Missouri River, I was taken sick, and had to stop two days before I was able to travel.  That was the first time that I had shelter from the time that I left Austin on this trip.  I lay in the house on my own blanket; I was urged to take a bed but would not having a change of clothes to put on.  As soon as I recovered sufficiently to travel again, I made a new start, traveled all day, being much fatigued called at a house to stay all night. I was told they could not keep me; that his wife was sick and could not give me any supper.  I told him it was shelter that I wanted and would waive a supper: that I had been sick and did not wish to lay out.  He replied he was frequently imposed upon by travelers; that they would call and stay all night, get their supper lodging and breakfast, and when they were ready to start would say that they could not pay at present, but would pay him the first time they passed, or would send the pay to him, but never did it: he had become tired of such imposition.  - he wished to know if I could pay my bill: I answered that I thought I could.  He replied, pointing his finger at me.  "I want you to be sure".  I answered I was sure I would pay him.  He said then you can stay.  I had a good supper and breakfast, and my mule well taken care of; paid my bill in the morning and resumed my journey.  I found the same difficulty almost every night, doubtless owing to my haggard and unclean appearance.  I bore their indisposition to give me accommodation without offense.  I was satisfied that were I at home, no such looking man could have got shelter with me. 

 

There was another little occurrence that took place, to the great amusement of the parties that witnessed it.  It was this.  As I was driving by a house, I discovered they had a lot of fine ripe cherries hanging on the trees in the yard.  Being fond of them, I concluded I would call and get drink of water, and perhaps they might invite me to gather and eat some of that fruit.  So, I got out of my buggy, went into the house and asked for water, which was handed me: at the same time, I noticed four or five buckets setting in the room full of cherries. I observed they had a fine lot of that fruit.  She replied, yes, our trees are very full this year: I said there was no fruit I was so fond of: the lady said it was very good would I not wish to gather some?  I thanked her and said I should be pleased to do so.  There were three young ladies in the orchard, where I went to gather a few to eat and some to put into my pocket.  Seeing a tree on which the fruit was much riper and fuller, I went to that and commenced gathering.  I soon found why the fruit was not gathered:  there was a beehive sitting under it.  They began to swarm out upon me.  I to retreat, and keep up a running fight, the young ladies to laugh in a smothered manner.  I ran under other trees and knocked off my hat, giving the bees a better chance at my face, which caused me to re-double my exertions in fighting and retreating.  I ran under some other limbs, which caught on my wig and left it hanging there.  This was too much for the ladies to bear: they broke out in the wildest shrieks of laughter, to my great mortification.  I kept back till the enemy retreated, gathered up my lost property, hat, wig and handkerchief, and left for Illinois, and arrived at home a few days after.  This was my last overland trip from Texas to Illinois. 

 

In the fall of 1860 I returned to Texas, the mercantile business being closed out: was there for the purpose of making collections.  I succeeded in collecting about $5,000 in gold.  The war having broken out in the beginning of 1861 and believing that all travel would be stopped between the North and South, I left for New Orleans.  On my way home, while in that city, I invested the $5,000 in sugar at 3 1/2 cts. per pound, and shipped it by steamer for St. Louis, where it arrived safe: it was the last steamer that was allowed to go above Memphis, as after that the Confederates confiscated all cargoes consigned to parties above that place.  The sugar was sold by a firm in that year at from nine to ten and a half cents.  On my return to Illinois in 1861, I spent my time on the farm, -- clearing up a wood lawn, planting a variety of fruit trees, setting out a fine vineyard and a large quantity of dwarf and fancy fruits.  After completing that work, I commenced in the year 1863 on the farm, building a commodious and fine Gothic brick residence, together with suitable outbuilding, planting three acres of forest trees, consisting of sugar maple, elm, honey locust, cherry, scotch pine, Norway spruce, balsam or fir, and larch in front on the house, extending to the State road from Chicago to Galena, as those acres are a lawn to the house.  In fact, I have done everything that was necessary to be done to make a pleasant and a happy home.  Its improvements are substantial and elegant; it will make a beautiful home for those that follow me.  These things have all been done within the last six years, ending the first of January 1867.

 

In November 1863, while the work was suspended in winter on my residence, I took a trip to St. Paul, Minnesota, for pleasure and to visit my son, JCT Phelps, who was engaged in that city in the mercantile business.  I remained there about two months and a half.  I went to see all the places of note that were within a short distance, as St. Anthony Falls, Minneapolis, Lake Como, Minnehaha Falls, Fort Snelling, I then returned home, and continued to make whatever improvement on my place that I fancied.  In March 1865, I was subpoenaed to Cincinnati, Ohio, in a military trial, to give evidence in the case, as to the character of the principal witness sustained in the city of Austin, Texas.  The trial was for conspiracy to release the rebel prisoners in Camp Douglas.  The parties tried were Judge Morris and Walsh: Morris was acquitted, Walsh was sentenced to prison.

 

[In the 1870 US Census, John Phelps, 74, is retired farmer, $22,000 in real estate, and $1,500 in value of personal property.  Wife Sarah is 73.

Wesley Johnston, 53, is retired merchant, and wife Sarah L., 52, and their children Alice S., 18, and Eva E., 16, and James W., 13.  They

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